We picked the brains of Alex Barrows on how he trains endurance, and what specific training he did to climb Era Vella (9a).
- 20-40 minutes on the wall
- A feeling of bloodflow in the forearms, or a light pump but always in control
Training for longer, pumpy routes:
- Circuit of approx.
- 30 moves Rest between circuits should be around the same amount of time as it took to climb
- Aim for 8 repetitions, you should be failing on the last 1-2 of these.
- You can adjust the difficulty of the circuit and the length of the rests slightly in order to get the level of difficulty right.
Back to back problems:
- Pick 4 problems which are quite hard for you.
- Each problem should be 5-7 moves long.
- Climb them back-to-back with only a short rest (15 seconds or less)
- Then take a long rest (10-20 minutes).
- Repeat the exercise 3 more times.
- Pick a sequence of hand moves.
- You can slow the movements down by incorporating foot movements, or by counting in your head.
- This is especially useful if you’re training for onsighting.
- Try starting with 1 minute on the board, 1 minute rest.
- Aim for 8 repetitions, again, you should be failing in the last 1-2 repetitions.
- For the next session, reduce the rest time slightly.
- I get good results doing this exercises after finishing the back-to-back problems exercise mentioned above.